9/21/2023 0 Comments Cut the rope 2 511![]() ![]() or Canada whose stories from 2021 demonstrate their skill, passion, and dedication. The Rocky Talkie Search and Rescue Award will distribute a total of $25,000 to four nonprofit teams from the U.S. The AAC has partnered with Rocky Talkie, makers of climber-friendly two-way radios, to highlight search and rescue teams engaged in outstanding missions during 2021. ANAC 2019 described a similar cleaning incident in Big Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. This report appears in the 2021 edition of ANAC, where you’ll also find a Know the Ropes feature article describing the ins and outs of cleaning steep routes. Here’s a demonstration of quickdraw removal with the popular Betastick Evo.) Muir Valley even has a few stick clips available for climbers to borrow, located underneath the awning by the parking lot. (There are video tutorials online for how to do this with most types of stick clips. The belayer can then brace for the swing before the climber unclips the lowest bolt.Īnother option is to leave the first draw on the route while cleaning and then remove it from the ground with a stick clip. To avoid pulling the belayer into a swing as well, the cleaning climber should completely disconnect from the belayer’s side of the rope before letting go from the wall. ( Source: Amanda Friedman.)Ĭleaning the last draw while lowering from an overhanging route is always potentially hazardous, as the climber generally will swing out from the wall. It was not fractured, but likely a severe bone bruise and tendonitis. I could barely walk for two weeks, and it took months before I was back to climbing. I was able to stand and walk slowly, so we hiked out. I made contact with one leg just above the ankle, and I think I hit my foot, too. I slammed into a small boulder lying on the ground and then hit a tree. This caused both of us to swing about 20 feet backward. I was prepared to swing a few feet, but when he removed the last draw from the route, he was still clipped into my side of the rope. At the last quickdraw he said, “You’re going to swing,” so I weighted the rope as much as I could before he cleaned the lowest draw. tramming), as is standard practice when cleaning overhanging routes. ![]() ![]() He was clipped into the belayer’s side of the rope with a quickdraw (a.k.a. I was tired and didn’t feel like climbing the route, so we decided he would clean it while lowering off. On September 8, my partner led The Fury (5.11c sport) at Bibliothek in the Muir Valley. My background is multi-pitch trad, and his is all sport. My partner (49) and I (33) are very experienced climbers. I had climbed at the Red River Gorge several times, and though it was my partner’s first time here, he has climbed and belayed plenty of steep routes. ![]()
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